Cutting Setting Triangles for On-point Quilt Blocks

With the end of the month looming, I'm organizing my head to set a few goals for next month and one of the finishes I'd like to accomplish is this basket sampler.  I made the 12" blocks a few years ago for a workshop with Marti Michell's Set M which can be used to make 12" 5-patch blocks.  Then when her Long Skinny Sashing Set came out early last year, I set the blocks together using that tool to make the sashed stars.  And since then, I've been hauling it around as a teaching sample for workshops based on her book, Machine Quilting in Sections.  But now it's time to finish it!

 

 Since I have it back out, I thought it would be a good time to talk about cutting the setting triangles for on-point settings.  I use two different approaches and I'll review each one for you.

In the first which I learned while taking teacher seminars with Mary Ellen Hopkins based on her classic book, It's Okay if You Sit on My Quilt, you need two measurements and plenty of fabric so you can cut big squares of the setting fabric to begin. 

For the edge triangles -- top, bottom, and sides -- you need to know the diagonal measurement.   A 12" square has a diagonal measurement of 17".

To this diagonal measurement, add 2 1/2"  to 3" -- so I need to cut mine 20".  Cut one square of the setting fabric for every 4 setting triangles needed.  Cut each of these squares on both diagonals as diagrammed below.  This keeps the straight of grain on the outside edges of the quilt making it more stable when it's time to add borders.  These triangles will be larger than necessary but I like having that extra "float" around the edges when lining up my border strips -- I can trim it down if need be though I seldom do.

The second measurement is the standard size of the block -- 12" in my case.   Add 2" to this measurement.  Again it's more than necessary but good insurance!  I always need two of these squares as each will be cut on just one diagonal to make 4 triangles for the 4 corners of the quilt.

The second approach is based on Marti Michell's tools.  Several years ago, she introduced Diagonal Set Triangle Rulers which allow you to cut setting triangles from strips.  The advantages of these tools is that you don't need to do any calculations and as long as you keep the straight of grain in the right place, you can cut your setting triangles from strips which sometimes is all one has left of the "perfect" fabric.

 

There are two styles -- this is the large size of the half triangle for cutting setting triangles for blocks that are from 6" to 16" square.  The card has complete instructions on how to cut with the ruler and if you undo the pink gizmo you see sticking out of the top of the card instead of cutting it off, you can re-attach the card to the tool so you'll know exactly where it is the next time you use the tool!!  The small size tool works for 3" to 9" blocks.  The corner triangles are cut with the same tool.  The ruler gets flipped in the cutting process -- once you've done it a couple times, you may not need to even read the instructions (though I always do just to be sure).

For those who don't want to "flip" the tool, there is now a pair of FULL Diagonal Set Rulers -- the large one is for blocks that are 5" to 16" and the small one is for 2 1/2" to 10" blocks.

To use the tools, you just need to know the finished size of the block!  You may not even need a ruler to get that number?  Each of the horizontal lines on the tools are labeled.  Here I'm cutting setting triangles for 7" blocks.  I start by cutting a strip of the setting fabric to match the line labeled 7" (though I usually bump it up a size just because I like that extra float). 

 

The first cut makes a triangle for one of the corners of the quilt -- no waste here!

This is the cut using the full size tool -- pretty simple!! 

With the half-triangle tool, it's the same approach -- cut the size strip listed on the tool.  Cut off the first corner triangle.  To align for the first side triangle, I flip the tool to this position and align the top corner to the existing diagonal cut and the top edge of the strip.

This is a close-up of that alignment!  Cut off the triangle along the edge of the tool.  And move down the strip cutting the number needed. 

 

The instructions that come with the tools are well illustrated and clear.  So look for these tools on your next shopping foray.  I have them here in my sales stock even though they aren't on the website so if you want one, contact me at maryhueyquilts@hotmail.com and I'll advise you of the cost and the shipping.

Back to searching for a couple more projects to finish in May!!

Mary Huey
www.maryhueyquilts.com

 

Diamond Star Playtime Sew-Along - Step 5

Welcome back!!  My collection of stars is growing -- how about yours?  While I intended to just make these stars for step photographing purposes, I seem to be building a new quilt.  The PDF for this step is here.  And if you are just discovering the Sew-Along, Step 1 is here, Step 2 is here, Step 3 is here and Step 4 is here.  It's not too late to join the adventure! 

Today, I'm going to share two star variations that bring hexagons into the mix.  This first one is very simple to piece -- no set-in seams again! 

If you are working with Set G, use these two templates. 

If you are working with Set H, use the large hexagon (#51) and the equilateral triangle (#52d)

Here's all the pieces cut and ready to assemble.  This big hexagon is ideal for a fussy cut. 

The piecing is all straight lines and I often make these as "leaders and enders" while piecing stars that require set-in seams.

The second star combines a hexagon for the center and the shape I call a "conehead" -- it's the 60 degree diamond with one point trimmed off.  Use these three templates if working with Set G

If you are working with Set H, all three of the shapes are combined on #52 -- you'll use #52a, the hexagon, #52c, the conehead, and #52 for the background diamonds. 

Study the "STRIP CUTTING CHART" included in the instruction sheet that came with your template set to determine the strip width needed and how to place the template on the strip.  That's a subtle way of forcing you to read some of the useful information that came with the templates so you'll be more comfortable with them in the future as you apply them to other projects.

This is one of my finished blocks -- you'll need one hexagon and six each of the coneheads and the background diamonds.  My coneheads are a set of "stack & whack" cut diamonds that I didn't yield an attractive center, so I trimmed them into coneheads.

You'll want to review the second half of the DVD workshop, Set-In Piecing Simplified to see how I work through dot-to-dot seams which is necessary at this stage.  So you'll need to chain piece into the first dot, pivot, stitch the seam to the second dot, pivot, and stitch off onto an "ender". 

Some instructions suggest you stitch every other conehead to the hexagon and then come back and insert the remaining three.  I prefer to work my way around the hexagon by adding a conehead, then the second adjacent conehead, and then attach the two coneheads together. 

Don't press any seams until the block is completely set together -- this makes it easier to keep seam bulk out of the way -- trust me on this one.

 Either approach is fine and has more to do with what you are comfortable doing.  So perhaps try both.  

The next few pictures will help you set-in the final conehead or if you are doing alternate ones.  I stitch the last conehead on one side first, remember it's DOT TO DOT.

Then I flip everything around and stitch the opposite "side" seam to the other conehead.  I have NOT joined the conehead to the hexagon yet. 

Then I come back and align the third edge of the conehead with the final edge of the hexagon. 

All the bulk shifts out of the way and you have a clear shot at the final seam -- DOT TO DOT!!  This is the same process I demonstrate on the DVD for setting rows of tumbling blocks together.

At this point, it only remains to add the six background diamonds and you have another finished star!!  To press this block, I alternate the swirls -- this is the center -- and press all the outside points towards the background diamonds.

 Here's a close-up of one of the conehead stars in my Pieceful Constellations quilt -- fussy cutting works very well with this design, too!

Time for you to try a couple stars of your own using these ideas! 

We'll take a two week break here and I want you to get the stars you have made so far all together and put them up on a work/design wall.  I'm not done with block ideas, but it's time to evaluate your progress so far and start to plan the setting of your sampler and decide what still needs to be added.  This is one of the sets I've been using as samples.  Putting them up will help me balance out the colors -- need to use more of the big floral and the greens.  And it gives me an idea of the scale of things thus far. 

 So next time, we'll look at setting options and decide on that before we move forward and learn to make a couple more stars and construct any fill-in blocks we might need.

As always if you have questions, post them below in the comments so everyone will learn along with you.  

Have a good day!

Mary Huey

All material Copyrighted by Mary Huey Quilts!

If you are having trouble finding the templates locally, you can order them directly from Marti!

http://frommarti.com 

Diamond Star Playtime Sew-Along -- Step 4 -- Splitting Diamonds

I hope you are enjoying the results of participating in this Sew-Along! 

The PDF for this step is here.  And if you are just discovering the Sew-Along, Step 1 is here, Step 2 is here, and Step 3 is here.  It's not too late to join the adventure!

Are you trying the chain-piecing technique from Set-In Piecing Simplified?  Are the demonstrations and guidelines in the DVD clear enough for you to learn the technique?  I'd love to hear how you are doing with that -- leave a comment below!

So let's split some diamonds!!  Both Sets G and H have templates that enable you to split the 60 degree diamonds lengthwise and crosswise.  We'll start with the lengthwise split.  (While preparing to write this step, I had some challenges -- grrr -- doing this with the 60 Degree Diamond tool and am preparing a separate PDF with photos explaining how to do this.) 

There are two lines down the length of the diamond templates in Sets G and H -- the dashed line is the stitching line and the solid one is the "cutting" lines. 

There are two way to cut these split diamond pieces.  You can cut individual half diamonds.  To do that cut a strip slightly wider than the template.  The lengthwise solid line is positioned on the edge of the fabric strip.  After cutting the first half diamond, twist the template around and cut on the opposite side of the strip so you'll have very little waste.  The two half diamonds are then sewn together and the center seam is pressed open.  

I prefer the second approach.  Two strips are stitched together and the seam is pressed open.  Then diamonds are cut by centering the dashed line down the center of the template on the seam.  There is more waste but my diamonds are more accurate and consistent. 

That waste can be eliminated by stitching the two strips together on both sides as in the photo below.  After some trial and error, I cut the strips 1/2" wider than half the diamond template.  The strip set only needs to be 4 times longer than the longest measurement of the diamond template.  So for template H52, I cut my strips 3" wide and 27" long.  For template G44, I cut strips 2 1/2" wide and 24" long.

Before cutting, press the strip set flat to set the stitching and then lay the template on one edge of the strip, cut a diamond and press the seam open.   

Pay attention to one fiddly little detail -- make sure the dashed lined is just inside the stitching line -- this allows for the fabric lost in folding open the seams allowances and if your 1/4" seam is a bit off, the diamonds will still be accurate. 

 Continue working down the strip set cutting on opposite sides until you have six diamonds.

When setting these diamonds together, it's easiest to manage the bulk of the outer points if you press those seams towards the background diamonds.  I only press the first seams open and then all the remaining seams are pressed to one side.  Make sure the central seams swirl in the same direction for the easiest assembly as your finish the block.

So here's one ready almost finished -- I forgot that my stripe will not be identical on all six diamonds when cutting this way -- but leaving it since it will be a good teaching example -- ended up with 3 of each -- next time, I won't use this double stitched seam with a stripe.  Who knew?

You can also split the diamonds crosswise.  In Set H and on the 60 Degree Diamond tool, there are lines on the templates.  In Set G, use the matching equilateral triangle template (#45 or #49).  This is my final arrangement, but I auditioned two others before deciding for sure. 

I like this one and think I'll use it with another fabric combination. 

This one looks clunky to me -- I tried every rotation of the outer points but none of them appealed.  Perhaps for a smaller star, this would have worked, but these are large stars made with 3 1/2" diamonds using the 60 Degree Diamond tool. 

Here is the final arrangement with the background diamonds in place -- ready to sew.

Notice anything? 

There are no set-in seams -- it's all straight lines.  Not that it matters so much to you at this point -- with all this practice, those set-in seams should be getting much easier by now! 

I'm stitching the sections together as my "leaders and enders" while make some of the other blocks.  I'm pressing as I go and ended up having to repress a few seams -- can't seem to come up with a repeatable formula for pressing this variation. 

You do want to press the seams that come into the center of the block so they can be swirled as in the set-in pieced stars to keep the center flatter.

The third variation works for the larger size stars.  When you piece together four of the smaller diamonds in Set G (use template #48) or Set H (use template 53), they make a diamond the same size as the larger template.  See the extra PDF for the 60 Degree Diamond tool if you are using that.

Be sure to take the time to nip off the points -- it makes accurate matching a breeze! 

Chain piece one half together for all six diamonds. 

Press the seams to one side. 

Repeat for the second set and press the seams so they will be opposite the first pair. 

Stitch the two halves together -- once again those trimmed points improve your accuracy.

Be sure to lay out the pairs before stitching so you don't experience this!!  Oops -- time to rip!

If you stitch a consistent 1/4" seam, the center seams will be aligned effortlessly! 

Lay out the block and assemble! 

Time to try it yourself.  Do at least one of the split variations -- maybe try all three! 

In Step 5, I'll introduce you to hexagons and cone heads (maybe you'd rather call them jewels) and show you how to incorporate them into your sampler of stars.  If you haven't already started to put your assortment of stars up onto your work wall, do that this week.  It's time to decide whether you like them better with a pointed end up or a flat side up.  That will help you make setting decisions when we get to Step 6.

Mary Huey

All material Copyrighted by Mary Huey Quilts!

If you can't find the templates locally, you can order them directly from Marti!

http://frommarti.com