Part 4 -- Dresden Star Tutorials

 How is piecing the Dresden Star blocks going for you? 

 It's very quiet out there so I'm assuming I'm doing such a great job on the tutorials that there is no need for questions or you are all just watching me do this??

Whichever it is, I'm having a good time and making steady progress.  I have 13 finished star blocks and 4 half-blocks in preparation for today's post.

Today, I'll cover making the half-blocks and cutting the setting triangles in preparation for 

Part 5 to discuss the setting of this quilt.

As you recall, I'm using a layer cake for my blocks.  I used a total of 26 squares from the layer cake for the stars.  To make the half-blocks, I'm using the leftover pieces of 8 layer cake squares which measure about 3" by 10".  

Both the crib version (in the pattern) and the laprobe size I'm making use 4 half-blocks.  Each half-block uses 3 pairs of blades, 4 kite points and 3 background diamonds.

Cutting these pieces from jelly roll (2 1/2" ) strips isn't a problem but I had to fiddle around a bit with the layer cake leftovers to get my 3 pair of blades. 

Thank goodness for my rotating rotary mat!!

 I actually found it easier to cut the blades out with the template I made for the last tutorial!?!

In the photo below, I've assembled two of the blade units with a kite point.  The remaining two blades are separated and positioned as shown.

This photo illustrates the order of assembly.

If you look back up at the first picture, you'll see this half-star on my design wall.

Now let's look at cutting the setting triangles.  Of course, as a retired Marti Michell educator, I'm using one of the 60 degree triangle rulers.  There are two and I have both, but if I were buying them today, I'd get the large one.  

If you don't have one of these rulers or a different brand, I'll go over cutting the triangles without one of them.

For the crib size setting, you need 16 full triangles and 4 half triangles.

For the lap robe size, I need 24 full triangles and 12 half triangles.

Before starting my blocks, I set aside all the light background prints from my layer cake to use for my setting triangles.    If you are working with a jelly roll, you'll need a 1/2 yard of a print with a light background that blends/coordinates with your fabric assortment for the setting triangles.

Layer two squares right sides together on the cutting mat and trim to a 9 3/4" square -- this is mostly to eliminate those pinked edges.  The reason for layering the squares right sides together is to get right and left half triangles without having to think about it.

No need to experiment with that idea -- just do it.

(I already messed it up by not doing it.)

Lay one edge of the small triangle or the 6" line of the large triangle along one edge of the squares and snugged up into a corner as below.  Cut the triangles making sure to trim the points as directed with the ruler.

To cut the half triangles, twist the ruler around 180 degrees and align the purple lines down the center of tool as shown.  ALL three lines need to be on the fabric because this creates the seam allowance needed on that edge of the piece.

Here's one of my squares after cutting -- two full triangles, two half triangles, and three scraps -- upper left corner, center piece, and lower right corner.  

With careful cutting, I was able to get 20 full triangles and 20 half triangles.

If you go back to the number of full triangles needed, you'll see that I'm 4 short for the laprobe.  But happily my brain realized that since I only need 12 of the half triangles, I can stitch the extra 8 half triangles together to make 4 more full triangles and I'm golden!!

In the next tutorial, I will explain how to make these blend right into the setting and everyone will think I planned it that way?!?

To use a different brand of ruler or a basic rotary ruler, start by cutting 6" strips across the width of the fabric -- two for the crib size, three for the lap robe size -- from the yardage of your setting fabric.  Layer two of the strips right sides together on your cutting mat (because you need left and right facing half-triangles) and square off the end.

Align the 60 degree line with the lower edge of the strip as below.  This first cut will make two of the half triangles but DON'T align it with the lower left corner as I have in the picture below.  My mistake meant I didn't have a seam allowance on that edge of the piece.

Instead, make a mark 1/4" in from the corner and align the ruler with that mark -- seam allowance.

(I made the mistake so you don't have to!?!)

This first cut will give you a pair of half triangles.

Then work your way across the strips rotating the ruler to line up along the 60 degree line on the lower edge of the strip.

You should get at least 10 triangles from each strip.

Before you take the triangles off the rotary mat, twist a 6" wide ruler so the 5  3/4" line matches each side of the triangle.  See that little corner peeking out at the upper right corner?  

Trim it off to mimic the trimmed corners of Marti's tool.  If you've not worked with trimmed corners, it's a game changer increasing my matching accuracy.

Do this for all three corners of the triangles.

As you near the opposite end of the strip, you can maximize fabric by cutting another set of half-triangles.  To do this, line up the 1/4" line of your straight ruler (adding seam allowance) and cut.

If you have Marti's 60 degree Triangle Ruler, align the tool with the edge of the strip, cut the diagonal and trim the 3 corners.

For other brands of 60 (equilateral) triangles, the horizontal lines may not match the fabric edge on a 6" strip, but this is the correct strip size -- so align the tool as straight as possible and don't worry about matching a line.  You will also need to use the trick for trimming the triangle corners that I shared above.

  One of the unique aspects of Marti's tool is that the sizes noted along the outer edges of the tool are the finished size of the triangles making it easier for you to determine what size is needed for your blocks.  In looking at other brands, their measurements seem to be based on the "height" of the tool and that is absolutely no help -- all it tells you is what size to cut the strip and not the size of the finished triangle. 

Here's a bonus idea I pondered when I realized I was running out of fabric for the triangles.  Cut four scrappy 3" sixty-degree triangles and stitch them together for a 6" triangle.

Just an idea to keep in your back pocket?

And it would be a good solution for a scrappy version!

I've reviewed this tutorial several times and hope I've anticipated everything you need to know about cutting the setting triangles, but if not -- ask away!!

THIS WEEK'S ACTION STEPS:

1.  Finish piecing your blocks and make four half-blocks.

2.  Cut the setting triangles as described above.

3.  Clear off your design wall so you will be ready to play next week -- tutorial 5 will come out Wednesday, July 26.

4.  And of course, leave your questions in the comments.  I bet someone else has the same question and will be relieved they aren't the only one asking it!!

Just for fun, if you are on Instagram, remember to post your blocks as you finish them -- use the hashtag, #dresdenstarquilt and tag me @hueymary

Mary

P.S.  Did you notice I've added six blocks to the UFO?!? 

 Progress!!!